After two days of needing to stay near the small room and feeling tired, I was not looking forward to going out on the bike to collect my passport (and hopefully visa) from the Ghana embassy today. Especially after being told by several people and reading on the Internet that they only normally issue them here to residents of Mali.
Not much to report today. The day started well, I had some breakfast and went for a walk across the Pont D’Matyres which spans the river Niger. My intention was to walk to the markets. After half an hour I was in a desperate rush to return to the smallest room. The rest of the day has been spent reading and sleeping.
Tomorrow WILL be better.
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Day 27: Recovering
I do not know if it was the heat and exhaustion from yesterday or the meal I had when I arrived at the Sleeping Camel but my digestive system has been complaining since 4am this morning.
I managed to get out this morning with the intention of getting visas for Ghana and Ivory Coast. At the Ghana embassy the first reaction was no. They only issue visas to Mali residents. I stayed in their waiting area re-assessing and looking at the map. I had arranged to meet Scouts in Ghana and did not want to miss that. I could try for a visa in the Ivory Coast but if they refused I would be forced back into Mali then try Burkino Faso. If they refused i would be forced to bypass Ghana and go to Togo.
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Day 26: A Horrible Day
I left my hotel yesterday knowing I had a long way to go to reach the capital Bamako. It was about 650km away, about 7 hours riding.
I made good progress in the morning with the day getting hotter and hotter but at least it was not dusty like Senegal. At 1pm the heat was unbearable so I stopped at the roadside for a couple of hours and put a tarpaulin up over me amd the bike. At 3pm I started off again thinking at the current rate of progress I would arrive at about 7pm. Just before it got dark.
Things unraveled from then. First I was getting low on fuel and had seen no petrol for hours. I eventually refilled from my 5L jerry can. That should get me to Bamako. Then the roads started getting worse, I was down to an average of 40kpm from 80kph previously. Sometimes down to 20kph or less. Fuel was getting low again so bought 5L from a man selling fuel from old 1L wine bottles.
Now it was getting dark. What do I do? Not safe to camp and GPS says 20 minutes to go. Luckily I caught up with a coach so followed him into town. He knew the road and when to speed up or slow down for potholes. It was very dark now. I was very thirsty but dare not stop and lose the coach.
Although GPS said 20 minutes, It took over an hour to reach my camp site at because of the bad roads; it was 8.30pm when I arrived dehydrated and exhausted. I had a wash, a meal, several drinks and went to bed.
Today my plan is to stay near a toilet (last nights meal is the suspect) and to apply for a few visas.
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Musings: Trust
While on the bike I have plenty of time to think. I think about family, friends, people I have met and loads of other stuff.
Today I spent a lot of time thinking about trust and my attitude to strangers. My natural instinct toward strange people I meet at the borders is mistrust and assumption they will do me ill.
My first camp in the true African bush went well. I had all my limbs in the morning and I slept soundly. That is after I put earplugs in, before that every rustle of the wind woke me up.
The ride today was pretty much as the rest of Senegal; hot and dusty. There has been a gradual change from salt production and green trees near the coast to charcoal production and more arid conditions inland.
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Day 24: On the road again
I am lying in my tent acutely aware of every sound around me. The occasional vehicle on the road 50m away, the crickets all around,the donkey braying in the distance, and the something large shuffling through the leaves about 15m away. The something large and me have come to an understanding, I will stop making noises and shining my light in its direction if it comes no closer and gives its life for me if something even larger comes in the night.
The Gambian scouts gave me a fantastic send off this morning and after getting through the capital Banjul, the ferry this time was easy. Even the border was a breeze with only the Senegalese customs insisting on a payment but refusing a receipt.
The road in Senegal from the border was in just as bad condition as it was last week when i went down into Gambia but roads have improved dramatically since i started the long haul East to Cameroon.
I have about one to two days travel to the Mali border and expect to cross on Monday.
Tomorrow: more hot and dusty miles across Senegal.
Ps. This will be posted next time i have wifi.
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Day 23: Jerre Jif
Gambia is… I could write so many things here but the reality is I cannot do the people justice in anything I write. I have been welcomed by smiling faces wherever I go, and want to come back; and I want to bring Scouts from the UK so they can get some of the energy that has been given to me over the last few days.
The culmination of my time here was this evening when the Gambian National Scout band have me a personal marching display (I have videod it) and tonight when we had a campfire Gambian style (African music and drums) when I definitely felt like guest of honour.
JERRE JIF
(Thank you)
Today has been a welcome break from the hectic schedule of the last few weeks. Omar took me to the local beach and the contrast between what the tourists see and what the people live is noticable. But what was also noticable was the lack of tourist. Probably because it is early in the season but the fear of ebola has had a big effect on tourism throughout Africa. The fears are unfounded and staying away from places like Gambia because of that fear is like not going to Spain.because of a problem in Scotland.
Today has been about getting run over and meeting people. Omar took me to the bank, the phone shop (Internet now working) the market and to his family house. I have also met the teachers at the little trees skills training school that are hosting me, and a lot of local Scout leaders. To get about I have been using public transport, an experience in itself.